The Italian goldsmith sector has demonstrated remarkable competitiveness over the past two years, achieving an extraordinary recovery compared to the pre-Covid period. The current competitive landscape is shaped by high uncertainty and volatility, driven by economic slowdown, inflation, and restrictive monetary policies. This analysis explores the sector’s positioning and the key strategies that could guide Italian goldsmith companies moving forward.
During 2022, gold and precious metals faced downward pressures driven by restrictive monetary policies and a strong U.S. dollar. However, there were positive developments, such as resilient demand for bullion and coins, as well as the reaccumulation of strategic reserves by central banks.
In 2023, the prices of precious metals will continue to be influenced by monetary and currency dynamics, but increasing importance will be placed on the economic conditions of major consuming countries and geopolitical balances.
Pure gold, platinum and silver, like all pure metals, are relatively soft with a low yield points and this has several drawbacks in the fabrication of 24ct gold, platinum and silver jewellery, limiting design possibilities as well as making such jewellery prone to scratching and wear. This softness is also an issue wih high fineness jewellery alloys such as 22 ct golds.
For 24 ct gold, the development of ‘990’ gold – titanium alloy in the late 1980s overcame many of these deficiencies but has not met with much commercial success. In recent years, however, there have been a number of hardened 24 ct gold materials developed with finenesses of 99.5% or higher, some in commercial production, where improved hardness and strength have been achieved by microalloying. Furthermore, microalloyed silver and platinum have also been developed and commercialised. This topic was reviewed at JTF 2005 but, since then, there has been further published research and commercial developments and this presentation updates the original 2005 review and extends it to include high fineness alloys.
The presentation offers an introduction on the principle of induction heating, its application for brazing, and its developments in the luxury watchmaking and jewelry sectors.
First, we will examine what induction heating entails, discussing the physical principles, operating mechanisms, and key design criteria that underpin this fascinating technology. Next, we will connect these concepts to the practical application of induction heating in brazing, highlighting the intrinsic advantages and limitations of this method and how they affect its effectiveness.
The next segment will focus on the essential guidelines for selecting the most suitable assemblies for induction heating. Key success factors will be emphasized, such as tool adaptation, the properties of solder paste, and compliance with specific requirements for high-end applications.
Finally, various application examples and the impressive results achieved through the use of induction heating in luxury watchmaking and jewelry will be presented.
Silver, despite being a widely used precious metal in jewelry, is prone to oxidation and tarnish phenomena, which primarily affect its aesthetic properties.
This study analyzes the tarnish phenomenon in silver from a chemical and physical perspective, outlining the reactions involved, the factors that accelerate its formation, and various techniques currently employed for its removal.
In the second section, the focus shifts to current anti-tarnish technologies for silver and the specific tests used to evaluate their effectiveness. A case study will be presented, demonstrating the varying ability of certain investigative methods to discern the actual tarnish resistance of products within the same technology.
The goal is to provide a comprehensive overview of the current state of solutions and to emphasize the importance of advanced testing methodologies in developing increasingly effective and reliable technologies for silver protection.
316L stainless steel (SS) is generally regarded as safe due to its high corrosion resistance and passivation properties, which inhibit metal release. However, this study demonstrates that electroplating can induce significant nickel release, even from 316L SS, challenging the assumption of its inertness. Nickel release was evaluated following a Ni-free electroplating cycle, and the findings were measured according to the EN 1811 standard for nickel release. The research investigated the effect of surface treatments and electroplating techniques on nickel release, focusing on the role of surface roughness and internal stresses. Comparisons were made between polished and unpolished 316L SS samples, revealing that smoother surfaces tend to exhibit less nickel release. Moreover, the study showed that increased thickness of the electroplated precious metal layer can mitigate nickel release, while internal stresses generated during the electroplating process can exacerbate it. Additionally, coatings obtained through physical vapor deposition (PVD), which preserve the passivation layer of the steel, did not exhibit any nickel release. These findings suggest that the primary cause of nickel release stems from the removal of the stainless steel’s passivation layer and the microporosity introduced during the electroplating process. This combination weakens the protective chromium oxide film, allowing nickel to leach from the alloy.
In conclusion, nickel release from 316L SS can be minimized by optimizing surface treatments and maintaining the integrity of the passivation layer, particularly when employing electroplating techniques for applications where nickel exposure must be strictly controlled.
1. Design: Between Technology and Radical Technological Innovation Innovative tools such as immersive reality and artificial intelligence are revolutionizing the design process, enhancing efficiency and quality. Real-time communication and remote collaboration enable more dynamic and globalized design processes. Multimaterial 3D printing and rapid prototyping allow the creation of complex products that were once unimaginable, supporting even small-scale productions, leading to the concept of “NO FACTORY, NO WASTE.”
DESIGN IS NO LONGER BOUND BY TRADITIONAL PRODUCTION BARRIERS BUT EXPANDS THROUGH NEW AND POWERFUL FREEDOMS.
2. Responsible Design and Environmental Impact: The Role of the Designer Eighty percent of a product’s environmental impact is determined during the design phase (European Commission on the circular economy). Therefore, design plays a pivotal role in reducing negative impacts on people and the planet. Every stage of a product’s lifecycle must be considered to minimize its footprint. Jewelry, by nature, consists of items meant to be preserved, cherished, and often passed down through generations. While the end of product life is not our primary concern, much can still be done: optimizing packaging, selecting low-impact materials, understanding certifications and supply chains, and adopting responsible communication strategies.
KNOWING THE ALTERNATIVES WE CAN IMPLEMENT TO REDUCE OUR EXTERNALITIES IS OUR DEFINITE RESPONSIBILITY. ONLY THROUGH A SYNERGY OF DESIGN, PROCESS, MATERIALS, AND COMMUNICATION CAN WE CREATE A MORE CONSCIOUS AND ATTENTIVE CONSUMER. Designers have the specific task of communicating the importance of design choices, transforming the consumer into an informed and responsible participant.
3. Technological Efficiency vs. Effectiveness Technology today offers access to multiple solutions that act as true “game-changers,” but efficiency does not always ensure effectiveness. Achieving effectiveness requires the ability to navigate and choose correctly. While knowledge is more accessible than ever, it requires the right tools to acquire and one irreplaceable factor: TIME.
In design, time is a precious resource. As Giorgio Armani stated, “luxury cannot and must not be fast.” Artificial intelligence and modern immersive design technologies help save significant time, but it is our responsibility not to channel it into a growing “creative bulimia” spurred by constantly shifting market briefs. Instead, we must use it to keep up with the times and reduce the impact of our productions on the planet. By investing in knowledge and skills, we can make informed decisions, and that requires TIME.
The first step is to delve into the concept of sustainability and understand that it is not solely associated with environmental or “green” aspects. Rather, it must be viewed holistically through the lens of ESG criteria: environmental, social, and governance factors.
Sustainability is an indispensable tool for doing business. It plays a key role in comprehensive risk management analysis and holds increasing significance in the financial context. A sustainable company not only has greater value and enhanced brand reputation but also benefits from better access to the banking system, with more favorable rates and conditions.
The discussion will focus on the current sustainability landscape, examining both regulatory obligations and the market opportunities that have emerged.
From a regulatory standpoint, the presentation will address the new Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD), and the specific requirements already included in sustainability reporting. It will conclude with insights into the third directive concerning the accurate communication of sustainability.
In this particular historical context, sustainability is in high demand across both B2B and B2C markets. Today’s consumers are increasingly aware and demanding, which means that communication must be precise and grounded in concrete facts and initiatives that the company has already implemented in this area.
Understanding the evolution of the regulatory context and its associated obligations—especially directives such as the CSRD and CSDDD—is essential not only for companies directly involved but also for those indirectly affected as part of the supply chain for larger groups, which are often less prepared.
It is equally important to highlight the approach companies should take and the advantages of adopting these principles.
The jewelry and fashion industries are not exempt from this movement. On the contrary, there is a strong push for an ethical, fair, and sustainable supply chain, both environmentally and socially, with respect for people at its core.
